Sunday, August 31, 2014

Change of Plans: Lesotho

If you haven't heard, Lesotho decided to have a coup less than a week before we got there. Word around South Africa is that the military has taken control and is patrolling the streets. Contrary to the news reports, it does seem to be a full-fledge coup and South Africa is not as neutral as they say (the Lesotho prime minister is being harbored here). Don't know what the ruling party expected when, in June, they suspended democracy. 

Anyways, for this reason, we've decided to reroute our trip a little. Lesotho will have to be saved for my next visit to Southern Africa. Now, we're planning on going to Swaziland. 

What is this witchcraft???

The Garden Route

Drive: Beautiful vineyards and fields of flowers (and one oil refinery)
Accommodation: Dijembe Backpackers
Comments: Really neat place in the forest with a total hippie vibe. 

Drive: Windmills and pastures
Accommodation: Island Vibe Backpackers
Comments: Great beach in this surfer community that resembled Daytona a little too much. 

Drive: Mountains
Accommodation: Buccaneer's Backpackers
Comments: Buccaneer's is a but off the paved road, and there really isn't anything to do there (the beach is through the woods and the bar didn't even open until 5p), but dinner was great (Mexican).

Drive: More mountains, then what resembled Malawi
Accommodation: Coffee Shack Backpackers
Comments: Probably our favorite stop on The Garden Route. Fun vibe, awesome beach, and the party would've probably been great if it hadnt started raining. Our room was on the other side of a "dry" river, that wasn't so dry after it started raining. We waded to our room. 

Drive: Even more mountains. 
Accommodation: Sanchia's
Comments: We got a late start, so we got into Petermarytzburg after dark. Mountain driving in South Africa (surround by South African drivers) at night is not as fun as it sounds. 

Overall, The Garden Route was amazing. Great variety of scenery, and some amazing beaches. 

Saturday, August 30, 2014

Cape Town

"[Cape Town, Cape Town]
That toddlin' town. 
[Cape Town, Cape Town]
I'll show you around.
Bet your bottom dollar you'll lose the blues
In [Cape Town, Cape Town.]"

Ok, Frank was actually singing about Chicago, but it applies to Cape Town as well. 

We made it into Cape Town on the 20th and immediately met up with Travis, who had arrived the day before as part of his COS trip. Our first order of business was sorting out the few activities we wanted to do, and the manager, John, at our backpackers, Cat and Moose, was hugely helpful. 

That first night, we went out for dinner. Wow! We went to a place called Arnold's that John recommend and gave us a coupon for. I got a game platter with crocodile ribs, an ostrich steak, a springbok stead, and warthog ribs. They were absolutely incredible! The meat was delicious, but then the expert chefs cooked them to perfection with the ideal sauce. If you're ever in Cape Town, eat there. 


The next day was pretty chill. We went out for breakfast and walked Long Street. Unfortunately, in an attempt to withdraw money, the ATM ate Cam's debit card. We were told he needed his passport, so we went back to the backpackers to get it. Him and Travis went back to the bank to try and sort it out, but it turns out that the bank wouldn't give him his card back and the reason they said bring ID so that they could destroy it in front if him. That's messed up! 

The next morning was an early one. We went on a Great White Shark encounter. While I didn't get into the cage, I did get some great pictures. Unfortunately, it was rough (7-9' seas), cold (60°F both water and air), and a slow day for sharks (we only saw 2), but I still am really glad we did. The two sharks were about 2.5m and 3m (8' and 10'), so not exactly small fish. Small note of pride, excluding crew, Cam and I were the only two on the boat that didn't get sick, and neither of us took sea-sick meds. 


The next day we went up Table Mountain. It's labeled as one of the New Seven Wonders of the World. I don't think that's quite justified, but it was really cool. It rises 1000m out of Cape Town and provides some spectacular views of the city and out to the Cape of Good Hope. It was, however, extremely cold and windy.


After Table Mountain, we headed back to the backpackers via a grocery store. An Ed13 PCV, Jake, just so happened to be arriving in Cape Town that day and came to have dinner with us, then we went out of Long Street for a little bit. 

Sunday was our Wine Flies tour. We tour five different wineries in the Stellenbosch region. The first one, Fairview, had cheese pairings, and was our favorite. Then we went to Simonsig for both normal wine and bubbly wine, we had lunch at Middelvlel, went to Demordenzln, and finished with chocolate pairings at boutique winery called Lovane.  Overall, it was a very fun day. 



Sadly, the next day Cam and I had to say goodbye to Cape Town. However, we were beginning our Garden Route road trip, so still happy. Before setting off, we wanted to visit the Cape of Good Hope and Jake wanted to join us. So, we went to the airport to pick up the rental car and then I drove (yup, for the first time in over 2 years and for the first time on the left in over 6 years) us out onto the Cape. Some spectacular views!



 That night, we stayed in Simon's Town, a great end to a great visit to a great place. 

Sunday, August 17, 2014

"You are not special!"

We're in the Intercape Bus (super bwana/luxury, double-decker) crossing from Zimbabwe to South Africa. We all get out of the bus, get our passports stamped exit from Zimbabwe, load back up, and head onto the Biet Bridge. 

Our driver decides we shouldn't have to wait in the long queue of buses, cars, and semis. So, he pulls into the on-coming lane, passes everyone, and starts to merge at the vehicle inspection gate. 

One of the South African officials starts yelling at the driver. We can't hear most of what he said (we're upstairs), but we did hear him say the driver must make a U-turn and reenter the queue. When, apparently, the driver protested, we could clearly hear, "I'm not joking. You are not special! Don't think that you are."

Well, our bus had to U-turn, cross back to the Zimbabwe side of the bridge, make another U-turn (next to some very confused looking Zimbabwian soldiers), and then reenter the vehicle queue. 

Turns out, no more vehicles had cleared Zimbabwian exit customs, so we were right back where we started. 

Zimbabwe

What can I say about this place?!? Zimbabwe is amazing, and definitely an underrated tourist destination. My first reaction when we crossed into Zimbabwe was amazement, but I figured that was just the super touristy Vic Falls. Nope! Haven't ceased to amazing me. The people are extremely nice, people don't try to rip you off, they'll leave you alone if asked (for the most part), we haven't seen too many drunkards, the police are polite, and there are special tourism police around all the attractions, so it is super safe. 

There was also a train, which we took from Vic Falls to Bulawayo. 



Our two big stops here (excluding the falls) are Matopo National Park and The Great Zimbabwe Ruins. 

Matopo National Park was a stop so we could see rhinos (the last one of The Big Five for both Cam and I to see in the wild).  We also got to see ancient cave paintings and watch the sunset from the top of one of the tallest mountains in the park. 








Great Zimbabwe, the namesake of the country and where they found a stone carving of a fish eagle that is now the national seal, is a extremely underrated attraction. How more people don't know about it, I don't understand. It's 14th century stone ruins that are put together with no mortar. The biggest wall is 11m (36ft) high!






Victoria Falls

This is rightfully one of the Natural Seven Wonders of the World. It's not the tallest, widest, or highest volume, but when you factor all three of these things, it's without compare. 

Our chosen activities were a trip to Livingstone Island (we saw the falls for the first time the same route David Livingstone did). Unfortunately, Devil's Pool was closed (unsafe due to high flow), but we did sit on the edge. 




The next day, we went on the lion encounter. I expected this to be a super touristy set of super tame lions, but actually it's lion cubs that are being reintroduced into nature so that their kittens can be raised without human contact and then used to reintroduce lions to other parks in Africa. 




That night, we went in a Sunset Cruise (with dinner and unlimited free drinks).


Sunday, we crossed into Zimbabwe and caught the Lunar Rainbow at the falls that night, under a 'Super Moon.'


Tuesday, we went into the park in the day and finally saw the falls in the traditional way. Wow!




Zambia

I think Cam best described Zambia by saying, "It's Malawi, just a little nicer in every way."

For example, Peace Corps Zambia has transit houses. We got to hang out in one of these transit houses in Chipata. It's a small compound for PCVs that are in town, with wifi and a full kitchen. Chipata itself was like Mzuzu, just a little nicer. There was both a Spar and a Shoprite. 

Lusaka, on the other hand, was its own amazingness.  There was a shopping mall where we had Chinese food in the food court, we saw a 3D movie ("Guardians of the Universe"), and enjoyed abundant, fast WiFi. The bus depot, while still distinctly African-chaotic, wasn't gross.








Monday, August 11, 2014

Zimbabwe First Impressions

Random early observations from Zimbabwe:


Crossing the Victoria Falls Bridge into Zimbabwe, a man shouted, "Welcome to Zimbabwe!" Cam and I both braced ourselves for the product he was trying to sell, or maybe he was a black-market money changer. Nope! He just wanted to welcome us. 

Passing a taxi-stand on our way into town, one taxi driver shouted "Taxi?" I responded, "no." No one else hassled us. 

We passed a curios (souvenir) market. No one bothered us. 

Walking into town, we had two 'fly-catchers' (people trying to sell us tours or safaris) approach us. The first one, when told we were just heading to our hostel, said, "Ok! Please come back later." The second one only persisted long enough to know if we wanted to buy weed. 

This
will buy a beer or a rum & coke, but this
is worthless. 


I'm liking this place!