There are generally three accepted ways of transport in the Malawi Peace Corps community. There are (1) big buses, which are 5-seats wide with the aisles packed with people and they only set-off once they're full full (my least favorite), (2) mini-buses, which are falling apart minivans that pack on average about 20 people (my record, which has happened twice, is 32), or the most famous option, (3) hitch-hiking (my prefered option if in an area with actual traffic). The hidden fourth option is the Bwana Big Bus (Axa Deluxe), that only runs on time, is 4-wide with comfy seats, and doesn't overfill, however it only runs a few specific routes once a day and often books up early.
Hitching is less sketchy here than you're thinking, my preferred method when the Bwana Bus isn't an option, and the basis of my two stories. I like ending happy, so lets Tarantino this and start with my more recent experience, and less fun.
19 February 2014
Mchinji to Mzuzu
7:30am
I started the morning happy. I had been visiting Nick Griffin, another TDF from the Ed12 group. We had a great workshop the previous morning, and had found both Kuche Kuche beer as well as Malawi Rum in the boma, which are both my favorites and both had been missing for 6 months (Malawi factories often just run out of certain items). As Nick left to teach, I boarded a bike taxi for the 6km ride to the road. This was expected, and not too unpleasant. Upon getting to the road, however, I realized a horrible omen: I had forgotten my Nalgene for the first time in my service. No worries! Nick could get it to me in Mzuzu the next day.
7:56a
I decided to take the M18 at the advisement of another PCV. She said it was faster and avoided Lilongwe, something I'm always happy to do. I had no troubles finding a mostly empty minibus to Kamwendo, the M18 turnoff.
8:10am
This is when my luck started to turn. I walked to the bus stage and found a completely empty taxi. He said he was going all the way to Kasungu, but needed to fill the car first. I told him I'd walk down the road a little ways (so I could flag passing cars) but if I was there when he set off, I'd ride with him. I walked down and found a matola (overloaded flatbed) that would take me to Kapiri, the half-way point on the M18 leg of the journey. I agreed to a price, but right after throwing my bag up and getting ready to climb up, the taxi pulled up with only two empty seats and said he was setting off "now now." At the prospect of going direct to Kasungu, I changed my mind and got in.
8:20am
Well, as sometimes happens, he circled back for more passengers. The matola set off, so I wasn't able to go back for that. It turns out, the other "passengers" were friends of his that he had sit in the car to fool me into thinking it was full. Since I had no other options at this point, I was forced to ride with this man anyways.
9:20am
It took an hour, and he managed to fit 15 people into an old Toyota Carolla (13 inside and 2 sitting in an open trunk). Finally, we set off. It took an hour to reach Kapiri, stopping many times along the way. Upon arriving at Kapiri, the driver informed me I was the only passenger continuing on, so I must find a new ride.
10:12am
I walk down from the bus stage on hopes of flagging down a hitch. Nothing is passing by, let alone stopping.
10:46am
I see a bicycle riding down the road, and the rider appears lighter-skinned than most Malawians and riding what looks like a Trek bike. It turns out to be Aisha, the PCV that headed the cookbook revision committee and was the one that arrived at the airport at the same time we were greeting the new Ed13 group. We chat, and she goes back off to work.
11:15am
Still waiting in Kapiri, Aisha rides back by. She tells me that if I'm stuck at lunch, I'm welcome to join her. She also offers to scout the bus stage situation and report. A few minutes later, she calls and says the minibus will set off around noon.
11:18am
Boosted by the hope of a minibus in the next hour, luck strikes and an empty taxi picks me up. They plan to fill along the way, and I get the front seat. About 20min down the road, I discover why he planned to fill along the way. Another taxi has broken down, so we pile 10 more passengers into the car (12 in total). This car takes me all the way to the M1, then sells me off to a minibus that will drop me in Kasungu.
1:13pm
I get off the minibus at the south turnoff to Kasungu Boma and set off walking down the M1 towards the northern turnoff. In the past, I've never made it that far.
1:50pm
Shortly after arriving at the northern turnoff, the Bwana Bus passes, which is direct to Mzuzu and gets in a little before dark. Not a great sign.
2:01pm
A super bouncy flat bed picks me up, but he's only going about 60km. I ride, we chat.
2:56pm
Dropped off in random trading center, I walk a few km out of town to flag another hitch. This village is particularly curious about the white man on the side of the road, and an endless line of people come to chat (something I am in no mood for).
3:15pm
A Rasta driving a small cargo truck, transporting sand, takes me about 40km. He notices me mouth singing along to "One Love" and puts the cassette on repeat (cassettes have repeat?!?).
3:46pm
I haven't even reached Jenda yet. I manage to board a semi, that stopped for some Malawians (definitely not for me), and ride on the flatbed trailer (even though the driver and many passengers already back there thought it was not possible for a white man to ride on such a vehicle and that I would surely fall off). He takes me to Jenda.
4:39pm
Finally at Jenda, it only takes me about 15min to find a Mzimba bound minibus that is setting off. I board. He stops a ridiculous amount, even by minibus standards.
5:33pm
The minibus stops at a stage and the conductor tells me and another passenger that we should ride on the big semi that stopped behind us. It is direct bound for Mzuzu. I agree with the driver on a price, and board to find I am to ride in an over-the-cab sleeping compartment. The semi is crazy slow on the hills. My phone is dying. I can't get comfortable (something that was providing the Malawian passengers with endless amusement).
7:50pm
I phone ahead to Joy's Place, where I'll be staying, to ensure food will be available. Justin says "no worries."
8:29pm
I can just now see the city lights of Mzuzu, a most welcome sight for a weary traveler. Justin calls to ask my progress, and then generously offers to pick me up at the Shoprite, where the driver has agreed to drop me off. I have just passed the Mzuzu Roadblock. So close.
8:58pm
I get off the semi, pay, and head for where I'm meeting Justin. On the way, in the dark, I step in a big mud puddle and get my foot and pants leg covered in mud. Figures.
9:05pm
 |
| Dinner at Joy's Place |
10 vehicles, 13.5 hours, 368km, Bad day
June 2013
Lilongwe to Malaza (Melissa's site)
7:35am
After just coming off a medical hold, I got a little later of a start than I had hoped for. I walked to the Shoprite and quickly for a minibus to the Salima turnoff (about 20min walking and a 30min ride out of town) full of nice-smelling bwanas on their way to work. I walked down past "the bridge" to what I was told is the normal M5 hitching spot.
9:09am
A G4S courier stopped to pick me up. He said he had to stop and drop off packages in Salima (where I had to get out and wait for him on the side of the road while he went by the office, since passengers are not allowed) and Nkhotakhota, but I was welcome to ride with him to Dwangwa. We did stop to pick a few more passengers (who rode in the back) up at the Salima boma turnoff, and dropped them about 30min down the road, but other than that, we went fast without delays.
12:37pm
Arrived in Dwangwa. In Melissa's SMS words, "Damn son, you in fire. Fastest hitch ever."
After walking just north of Dwangwa, and stopping long enough to enjoy an apple (something I just discovered I actually like), a semi stopped to pick me up. I wasn't the only passenger, but he was going to drop me at the Sambani Lodge sign, a short 0.5km hike to Melissa's front door.
Uh oh. We broke down. But look at this! There is another truck, just 15min behind us, that is friends with this driver and will take me the rest of the way.
I pass through Malaza, get dropped at the Sambani sign, and walk the short distance to Melissa's house where her, Jon, and Zen (who I have traveled here to pick up) are happy to greet me. Melissa informs me this is the fastest anyone has ever made it from Lilongwe to her site (breaking Christina's old record by a few minutes).
4 vehicles, 7.5 hours, 330km, Good day
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