Almost done!

The library has walls, a roof, they're "plastering" now (with cement), and then the floor and finishing touches. I don't want to jinx it, but we might actually reach my end of March goal!

Peace Corps Week 2014 Video Challenge

At the encouragement of another PCV, I have decided to enter the Peace Corps Week 2014 Video Challenge.  This is a compilation of video clips from some of my previous videos (as well as previews of the 2014 video) that I feel show what Malawian village life is like through my eyes.  I need a decent number of views to be considered. So enjoy (repeatedly)!

A Tale of Two Transport Days

I've avoided doing a blog post on transport, but I now realize that this is a very important aspect of my life, and to not share it with you would be wrong. Most PCVs here would agree that isolation, annoying cultural differences, nor even a lack of cheese are the worst aspects of life in Malawi, but in fact it is transport. Some chose to cope with this by only leaving site when absolutely necessary (Donald), some turn it into a game (Melissa), and some of us have just learned how to turn off all but essential brain functions and come back to at our destination. 

There are generally three accepted ways of transport in the Malawi Peace Corps community. There are (1) big buses, which are 5-seats wide with the aisles packed with people and they only set-off once they're full full (my least favorite), (2) mini-buses, which are falling apart minivans that pack on average about 20 people (my record, which has happened twice, is 32), or the most famous option, (3) hitch-hiking (my prefered option if in an area with actual traffic). The hidden fourth option is the Bwana Big Bus (Axa Deluxe), that only runs on time, is 4-wide with comfy seats, and doesn't overfill, however it only runs a few specific routes once a day and often books up early. 

Hitching is less sketchy here than you're thinking, my preferred method when the Bwana Bus isn't an option, and the basis of my two stories. I like ending happy, so lets Tarantino this and start with my more recent experience, and less fun. 

19 February 2014

Mchinji to Mzuzu

7:30am

I started the morning happy. I had been visiting Nick Griffin, another TDF from the Ed12 group. We had a great workshop the previous morning, and had found both Kuche Kuche beer as well as Malawi Rum in the boma, which are both my favorites and both had been missing for 6 months (Malawi factories often just run out of certain items).  As Nick left to teach, I boarded a bike taxi for the 6km ride to the road. This was expected, and not too unpleasant. Upon getting to the road, however, I realized a horrible omen: I had forgotten my Nalgene for the first time in my service. No worries! Nick could get it to me in Mzuzu the next day.

7:56a

I decided to take the M18 at the advisement of another PCV. She said it was faster and avoided Lilongwe, something I'm always happy to do. I had no troubles finding a mostly empty minibus to Kamwendo, the M18 turnoff. 

8:10am

This is when my luck started to turn. I walked to the bus stage and found a completely empty taxi. He said he was going all the way to Kasungu, but needed to fill the car first. I told him I'd walk down the road a little ways (so I could flag passing cars) but if I was there when he set off, I'd ride with him. I walked down and found a matola (overloaded flatbed) that would take me to Kapiri, the half-way point on the M18 leg of the journey. I agreed to a price, but right after throwing my bag up and getting ready to climb up, the taxi pulled up with only two empty seats and said he was setting off "now now." At the prospect of going direct to Kasungu, I changed my mind and got in.

8:20am

Well, as sometimes happens, he circled back for more passengers. The matola set off, so I wasn't able to go back for that. It turns out, the other "passengers" were friends of his that he had sit in the car to fool me into thinking it was full. Since I had no other options at this point, I was forced to ride with this man anyways. 

9:20am

It took an hour, and he managed to fit 15 people into an old Toyota Carolla (13 inside and 2 sitting in an open trunk). Finally, we set off. It took an hour to reach Kapiri, stopping many times along the way. Upon arriving at Kapiri, the driver informed me I was the only passenger continuing on, so I must find a new ride. 

10:12am

I walk down from the bus stage on hopes of flagging down a hitch. Nothing is passing by, let alone stopping. 

10:46am

I see a bicycle riding down the road, and the rider appears lighter-skinned than most Malawians and riding what looks like a Trek bike. It turns out to be Aisha, the PCV that headed the cookbook revision committee and was the one that arrived at the airport at the same time we were greeting the new Ed13 group. We chat, and she goes back off to work.

11:15am

Still waiting in Kapiri, Aisha rides back by. She tells me that if I'm stuck at lunch, I'm welcome to join her. She also offers to scout the bus stage situation and report. A few minutes later, she calls and says the minibus will set off around noon.

11:18am

Boosted by the hope of a minibus in the next hour, luck strikes and an empty taxi picks me up. They plan to fill along the way, and I get the front seat. About 20min down the road, I discover why he planned to fill along the way. Another taxi has broken down, so we pile 10 more passengers into the car (12 in total). This car takes me all the way to the M1, then sells me off to a minibus that will drop me in Kasungu. 

1:13pm

I get off the minibus at the south turnoff to Kasungu Boma and set off walking down the M1 towards the northern turnoff. In the past, I've never made it that far. 

1:50pm

Shortly after arriving at the northern turnoff, the Bwana Bus passes, which is direct to Mzuzu and gets in a little before dark. Not a great sign. 

2:01pm

A super bouncy flat bed picks me up, but he's only going about 60km. I ride, we chat.

2:56pm

Dropped off in random trading center, I walk a few km out of town to flag another hitch. This village is particularly curious about the white man on the side of the road, and an endless line of people come to chat (something I am in no mood for). 

3:15pm

A Rasta driving a small cargo truck, transporting sand, takes me about 40km. He notices me mouth singing along to "One Love" and puts the cassette on repeat (cassettes have repeat?!?).

3:46pm

I haven't even reached Jenda yet. I manage to board a semi, that stopped for some Malawians (definitely not for me), and ride on the flatbed trailer (even though the driver and many passengers already back there thought it was not possible for a white man to ride on such a vehicle and that I would surely fall off). He takes me to Jenda.

4:39pm

Finally at Jenda, it only takes me about 15min to find a Mzimba bound minibus that is setting off. I board. He stops a ridiculous amount, even by minibus standards. 

5:33pm

The minibus stops at a stage and the conductor tells me and another passenger that we should ride on the big semi that stopped behind us. It is direct bound for Mzuzu. I agree with the driver on a price, and board to find I am to ride in an over-the-cab sleeping compartment. The semi is crazy slow on the hills. My phone is dying. I can't get comfortable (something that was providing the Malawian passengers with endless amusement).

7:50pm

I phone ahead to Joy's Place, where I'll be staying, to ensure food will be available. Justin says "no worries."

8:29pm

I can just now see the city lights of Mzuzu, a most welcome sight for a weary traveler. Justin calls to ask my progress, and then generously offers to pick me up at the Shoprite, where the driver has agreed to drop me off. I have just passed the Mzuzu Roadblock. So close. 

8:58pm

I get off the semi, pay, and head for where I'm meeting Justin. On the way, in the dark, I step in a big mud puddle and get my foot and pants leg covered in mud. Figures. 

9:05pm

Dinner at Joy's Place

10 vehicles, 13.5 hours, 368km, Bad day

June 2013

Lilongwe to Malaza (Melissa's site)

7:35am

After just coming off a medical hold, I got a little later of a start than I had hoped for. I walked to the Shoprite and quickly for a minibus to the Salima turnoff (about 20min walking and a 30min ride out of town) full of nice-smelling bwanas on their way to work.  I walked down past "the bridge" to what I was told is the normal M5 hitching spot. 

9:09am

A G4S courier stopped to pick me up. He said he had to stop and drop off packages in Salima (where I had to get out and wait for him on the side of the road while he went by the office, since passengers are not allowed) and Nkhotakhota, but I was welcome to ride with him to Dwangwa. We did stop to pick a few more passengers (who rode in the back) up at the Salima boma turnoff, and dropped them about 30min down the road, but other than that, we went fast without delays. 

12:37pm

Arrived in Dwangwa. In Melissa's SMS words, "Damn son, you in fire. Fastest hitch ever."

1:09pm

After walking just north of Dwangwa, and stopping long enough to enjoy an apple (something I just discovered I actually like), a semi stopped to pick me up. I wasn't the only passenger, but he was going to drop me at the Sambani Lodge sign, a short 0.5km hike to Melissa's front door. 

1:39pm

Uh oh. We broke down. But look at this! There is another truck, just 15min behind us, that is friends with this driver and will take me the rest of the way. 

3:02pm

I pass through Malaza, get dropped at the Sambani sign, and walk the short distance to Melissa's house where her, Jon, and Zen (who I have traveled here to pick up) are happy to greet me. Melissa informs me this is the fastest anyone has ever made it from Lilongwe to her site (breaking Christina's old record by a few minutes).

4 vehicles, 7.5 hours, 330km, Good day

Zomba Plateau

I finally made it up the Zomba Plateau. A small group of fellow PCVs and I agreed to meet and climb up.  Two of us were going up on Friday, then the other three would meet us up there Saturday. 
 

Rain, rain, rain

I wasn't fully recovered from my illness, and the rain was being cruel, so we decided to spend Friday night at a nice little bed and breakfast called Casa Rossa located near the start of the hike. They had a cheese platter on the menu! It was delightful and quaint. 

Casa Rossa, Zomba

The next morning, we set off only to have the car with the other three pick us up. Minimal hiking necessary.

At the top, we enjoy cappuccinos at the Sunbird hotel. Due to the rainy weather, we were literally in the clouds. Once we got to the Trout Farm and checked into a cabin, we didn't really find the need to go outside again. We just stayed in, played games, chatted, chilled, and had some beers. Originally, I wanted to hike around and see the plateau, but it turned out perfect. 

The others thought it looked like something from Twlight

The next day, the weather cleared up and we hiked part of the way down (after another round cappuccinos at the Sunbird). We got to see the dam and get a great view of Mt Mulanje. One car then picked up two of our group and another car came alone a little later and picked up the rest of us, taking us to the base of the mountain. 

No Regrets

Whatever happened, happened. 

It's the only way it could've happened that lead sent you down the path your on. 

And this is the only path you'll take.

Sick

This might come as quite a surprise to some, but occasionally, PCVs become ill. Also occasionally, this occurs while on vacation (if your Donald, it's usually while you're on vacation).


Unfortunately, this happened to me. After Mt. Mulanje, I visited a friend's site, and watched her fall quite ill the night before I left. I felt very sorry for her, until I reached Rita's house and discovered I too had a fever and in fact, felt quite sick myself.

Did you know you can get relapse giardia? I now know this to be fact.


I am now fully recovered and my vacation was only moderately disturbed by it.  A huge thank you Rita for being an amazing nurse and great friend in my time of need.

Mt Mulanje

As I am sure that you are aware, I climbed Mt. Kilimanjaro back in August. So, when I said I wanted to climb Mt. Mulanje and reach the peak (3002m), I thought "this should be easy."

Walking to the mountain through the tea plantation

Wrong!

Luckily, both of my climbing buddies canceled due to work. I talked Ryan into doing the climb with me (he lives as the base of the mountain and has actually reached the summit before), but I also asked that he arrange only a day up and a day down, instead of our original 5-day hike plan. This means we would only hike to the plateau, and not attempt to summit.

GPS Track of our hike

Why is it lucky that I could only spend 2 days on this wonderful mastiff instead of 5 you ask?


It turns out that skipping breakfast, consuming more beer than water in the week leading up to it, skipping all that silly conditioning, not stretching, and saving money by not hiring porters were not good strategies for taking what is considered a technical hike done during the worst conditions of year.


Ryan and I were dying. For some reason, our guide did not know the meaning of "slow down," even though we kept repeating it in both English and Chichewa. Maybe he couldn't understand us because we were wheezing from a total lack of breath. At one point, we were convinced our friendship would end on that mountain. I think the only reason we didn't quit was because we thought the other was doing better.

Filling my water bottle on one of our many breaks

However, once we reached the plateau I instantly became glad we help on. It's a field of flowing grass and you'd never suspect you were 2000m in the air, 1500m above the surrounding lands. 

The plateau of Mt. Mulanje

The cabin where we stayed was something out of a story book. The hot bath was heavenly. Our peanut butter and jelly sandwich dinner was the best imaginable. 

Approaching our cabin

The next morning we climbed down, and for whatever reason, even though our guide was still racing (which led to a few minor injuries), we seemed to fair much better. We both admitted we were glad we did it.  My calves were sore for a week.  I'm also happy to report, Ryan and I are...
 

...still friends

Cape Maclear

I have heard about Cape Maclear since I arrived in Malawi. Most people say it is fairly overrated and has essentially been replaced by the nicer Nkhata Bay as the top tourism spot on the lake. So, when I planned to start my southern tour vacation there, I didn't have high expectations.  However, I couldn't have been more wrong. It was incredible! Even though we went in rainy season, the weather was great. The water was crystal clear, the view magnificent, and the place we stayed (Mgoza Lodge) was out of this world.

The view from Mgoza Lodge

Probably the best part of the trip was going for a dive with my newest dive partner, Becca. (It's nice to have another true, proud Floridian in Malawi that I can relate with. Obviously, she's a diver, but the fact that she's a Gator fan is just a bonus.)

International, diver Gator Chomp

Overall, I'd highly recommend Cape Mac. Our incredible experience may have been a fluke,  however I would rank it as the nicest place on the lake, even a touch over Likoma Island.

Sunset on our last night